“Smell the sea and feel the sky.
Let your soul and spirit fly into the mystic.”
Van Morrison
“Into The Mystic”
August 21st to September 15th
1,260 miles
Summary of Road Conditions
Numbers in parentheses refer to the page number for the relevant map in the Rand McNally Road Atlas. The mileage figure next to each city is the distance from the preceding city. Mileage is calculated from city to city based on Google Map’s routing engine.
Starting in Port Townsend, WA (109)
Pedestrians and cyclists are the first to disembark from the Port Townsend ferry boat. Proceed straight ahead to the traffic signal. Turn left at the traffic signal to follow Hwy 20 about 12 miles to the intersection with Hwy 101. You will pass a Safeway on your right. If you want to visit the beautiful seaside village of Port Townsend, turn right at the traffic signal and head downtown. Port Townsend has lots of shops, restaurants, and coffee shops. Signs announce that the restaurants are serving chowder and fish sandwiches. I am very easily persuaded when I am hungry! I decide to have chowder AND a fish sandwich!
W 101 Sequim, 31 mi
From Hwy 20, turn right at the intersection with Hwy 101. The route to Sequim and Port Angeles is relatively flat and has full paved shoulders. You are likely to encounter road construction projects, however, that will temporarily force you onto narrow shoulders. Most commercial businesses are accessed by exiting to your right. In Sequim, I recommend the River Rd. exit. This exit leads to a Safeway and to a variety of fast food restaurants.
W 101 Port Angeles, 17 mi
The route between Sequim and Port Angeles is a busy commercial corridor with heavy traffic. You have a full paved shoulder, however. As you enter Port Angeles, there is a Walmart on your right immediately adjacent to the highway. Hwy 101 continues to the downtown, waterfront district in Port Angeles. There you will see prominent signs directing you to turn left onto Lincoln St. in order to continue on Hwy 101 westbound. After turning onto Lincoln St., you will climb for several miles. The climb is not extremely steep but it is unrelenting. You will pass a Safeway on your right. Just past the top of the hill, look for a circular motel restaurant on your right which is an absolute gem of mid-century American architecture. After you depart Port Angeles, the route becomes rural. The steep roadsides make finding stealth camping spots challenging. If you are patient, however, you will eventually find a level place to camp.
W 101 Forks, 56 mi
About ten miles after departing Port Angeles, you will see a sign warning cyclists that the next twelve miles on Hwy 101 are twisty and have narrow shoulders. Push the button next to the sign to turn on the flashing lights that warn motorists that bicycles are on the road. Honestly, this section is not quite as bad as the warnings would suggest. You will generally be able to ride slightly to the right of the white line. There are numerous turnouts where you can pause to let cars pass. The road surfaces are excellent and there are no rumble strips. The scenery is breathtaking as you skirt a series of incredibly beautiful lakes. This is actually one of my favorite sections. Following this twisty section, you will climb for about an hour. After the climb, the route is slightly downhill the rest of the way to Forks. Your full paved shoulder resumes. On the far side of Forks, there is a nice grocery store on your right with an indoor seating area. Unfortunately, there are no electrical outlets in the seating area. Just before you get to the grocery store, there is a laundromat on your left.
Forks is famous as the real life setting for the “Twilight” teen vampire novels and the movies based on the novels starring Kristen Stewart. On one trip, when interest in “Twilight” was at a feverish pitch, I observed a constant stream of determined looking, very pale teenage girls, usually dressed entirely in black, passing through Forks with their rather exasperated looking mothers in tow. Shopkeepers in Forks had very wisely decided to stock “Twilight” posters and other memorabilia. I really enjoyed watching the whole scene unfold. Forks continues to host a “Twilight” festival each September. I must admit that the deep shade in the surrounding forests makes Forks the perfect setting for a teen vampire novel! I have camped under a giant cedar tree at the edge of Forks and, without the slightest doubt, it is the creepiest camping spot I have ever camped at!
S 101 Hoh Rain Forest
The route is mostly flat with occasional gentle hills. You have generous mini-shoulders. Occasionally, you will catch a glimpse of the Pacific ocean from the highway. If you walk down one of the marked trails to one of the secluded beaches, you can enjoy the bracing air, look for driftwood, and watch the waves break on the shore. You will also see signs on Hwy 101 indicating where to turn to see the “big cedar tree.” There are several of these signs because there are several noteworthy cedar trees along the route. These ancient trees always humble me and remind me how short our allotted time on this beautiful planet really is. Be sure to stop and visit the Hoh rain forest. This temperate rain forest is one of the world’s rarest habitats. A deep silence seems to settle around you as you step into the ancient forest. The moss and ferns beneath the canopy of trees are lush, green, and very aromatic.
S 101 Humptulips, 82 mi (from Forks)
The tiny town of Humptulips has a general store and restaurant located on your right in the center of town. While I was having lunch at the restaurant, I asked an older Native American woman how the town got its name. She explained that the word “humptulips” in her native language means “prepare to pole the canoe because the river is getting shallow.” The extraordinary specificity built into the native language is thought provoking. The sea, the lakes, and the rivers in this region are central to the life of anyone who lives here. Just as people living in arctic regions have different words for different kinds of snow, it makes sense that a culture dependent on canoeing the local waterways would have specific words for each aspect of canoeing. As I depart Humptulips, I cross a bridge over the Humptulips River. Sure enough, the river is shallow and has sandbars. It is exactly the sort of river which would require one to use a pole to push a canoe through the shallow areas!
We are finally beginning to acknowledge just how crucial ancient knowledge of the natural world really is. It is heartening to learn, for example, that the authorities in Australia are seeking advice from their indigenous people regarding the best way to adapt to the frequent wildfires in the arid outback. We need the same sort of knowledge in our country because wildfires have also devastated parts of Washington, Oregon, and California.
S 101 Hoquiam, 22 mi
Hoquiam and Aberdeen are larger towns situated close together. They have every amenity. You will cross a drawbridge across the Hoquiam River to enter Hoquiam. Be sure to use the pedestrian walkway to cross the bridge.
S 101 Aberdeen, 4 mi
You will cross another drawbridge as you depart Aberdeen. Again, be sure to use the pedestrian walkway. Just before this bridge, there is a Walmart on your left. Turn left onto Hwy 12 and the Walmart is a short distance down on your right. With numerous bridges, pedestrian walkways, one way streets, and heavy traffic, the area near Walmart is challenging for cyclists. I managed to make my way to and from the Walmart by riding on the sidewalks.
S 101 Raymond, 25 mi
The route is very hilly between Aberdeen and Raymond. You generally have a full paved shoulder. There are a few short sections with narrow mini-shoulders. You will pass metal heritage sculptures as Hwy 101 sweeps around Raymond. These sculptures are exceptionally well done. I always associate Raymond with these beautiful sculptures. There is a bridge as you depart Raymond. Be sure to use the pedestrian walkway to cross the bridge. A short distance past the bridge, there is a Thriftway grocery store on your right. The Thriftway has a riverside patio with picnic tables. There is an outside electrical outlet to the left of the store entrance. This is a great place to eat lunch.
S 101/4/401 Bridge to Astoria, Oregon (84), 58 mi
Hwy 101 passes by fisheries and beautiful wetlands. There are some hills but nothing as brutal as the ride from Aberdeen to Raymond. About fifteen miles past Raymond, there is a very nice county campground on your right. Camping for bicycle tourists is $15 per night. Hwy 101 dead ends at the intersection with Hwy 4. If you turn right at this intersection, Hwy 101 continues through several charming seaside towns and eventually to the Astoria bridge. If you turn left at this intersection, you will be taking a shorter, more rural route to the Astoria bridge. If you decide to turn left onto Hwy 4, after a few miles turn right onto Hwy 401. After you turn onto Hwy 401, you will pass Okies grocery store on your left. There is a working electrical outlet on the right hand exterior wall of the store. There is an espresso kiosk in Okies’ parking lot next to a beautiful shade tree. This is a very nice place to have lunch and enjoy a latte. Continue on Hwy 401 to the Astoria bridge. Get in the left lane as you approach the bridge. This awe inspiring bridge crosses the bay where the powerful Columbia river meets the Pacific ocean. This bridge is challenging for cyclists. On the positive side, there is a sign warning drivers that cyclists might be on the bridge. Also, you will be able to ride just to the right of the white line all the way across the bridge. On the negative side, the bridge has only two lanes and is extremely long with a tough climb on the Astoria side. Remain calm and focus on riding in a straight line just to the right of the white line. I assure you that you will eventually arrive on the other side of the bridge safe and sound!
S 101 Bridge to Warrenton, 6 mi
In Astoria, follow the signs for Hwy 101, traverse a roundabout, and cross another bridge to follow Hwy 101 to Warrenton. The Warrenton bridge is much more bicycle friendly than the Astoria bridge. About half way across the Warrenton bridge, your full paved shoulder resumes. As you are leaving Warrenton, there is a Fred Meyers grocery store on your right. There is also a stand alone Starbucks a little further down on your right. Finally, after another mile or so, there is a Walmart on your left. The Walmart has electrical outlets on the exterior of the store.
The Oregon coast is an incredibly beautiful bicycle route. It is world renowned as a cycling destination. Oregon welcomes cyclists with open arms and the route generally has full paved shoulders. Be sure to take a walk on some of the beautiful beaches along the way and be sure to enjoy some local clam chowder. You will be following Hwy 101 all the way down the Oregon coast and into California. There are plenty of hills along the way, but I would rate the Oregon coast as bicycle friendly for even novice bicycle tourists.
S 101 Seaside, 12 mi
The ride from Warrenton to Seaside is relatively flat with full paved shoulders. Traffic is heavy. There are traffic signals in Seaside with signs directing you to turn right to visit downtown Seaside. Seaside is beautiful, charming, and touristy. I recommend turning and riding all the way to the ocean. Seaside has lots of restaurants and shops. If you stay on Hwy 101, you will pass a Safeway on your left. There is a stand alone Starbucks across the highway from the Safeway. About a mile past the Safeway, there is a laundromat on your left.
S 101 Cannon Beach, 9 mi
The route is moderately hilly with a full paved shoulder. Occasionally, you will catch glimpses of the Pacific ocean. Cannon Beach is a wealthy resort community. If you need to visit a grocery store, turn right at the exit for “Tolovana Park.” There is a nice grocery store a short distance down. This store is similar to a Whole Foods Market.
S 101 Tillamook, 40 mi
The route is mostly flat with a full paved shoulder. Tillamook is a larger town. There is a Fred Meyers grocery store on your right as you follow Hwy 101 through Tillamook. You don’t want to miss the Tillamook Air Museum if you are interested in antique aircraft.
S 101 Lincoln City, 44 mi
There is a twenty mile section on Hwy 101 between approximately mile marker 70 and mile marker 90 where you lose your full shoulder. You can avoid this tense section by following the signs for the Oregon Coast Bicycle Route. These signs are often an indication that it is a good idea to exit to your right and follow a more peaceful route that will eventually take you back to Hwy 101. Whenever sections of Hwy 101 are repaired, it appears that full shoulders are being installed for the benefit of cyclists. Therefore, the narrow, tense sections are becoming fewer over time. My advice is to follow the signs for the official bicycle route if safety is your primary concern. The only downsides are that it will make your journey somewhat longer and that it is sometimes difficult to follow the signs in order to find your way back to Hwy 101.
Lincoln City is a larger town bustling with traffic and commerce. Hotels, restaurants, coffee shops, and art galleries crowd each side of Hwy 101. As you enter Lincoln City, there is a discount grocery store and a laundromat in a shopping center to your right. A few miles further down there is an IGA grocery store on your right and another laundromat on your left. After a few more miles, there is a small park with restrooms and a picnic table on your right. The park is just a few steps away from the beach. There is a water faucet outside the restrooms where beach goers can wash the sand off their feet. The water quality is excellent.
S 101 Newport, 25 mi
There is a Walmart on your right as you enter Newport. Continue about a mile and there is a Thriftway grocery store on your right. Across the highway from the Thriftway there is a Starbucks. Newport is famous for its historic lighthouse. You cross a beautiful art deco bridge as you depart Newport. Several miles further, you cross another beautiful art deco bridge. These bridges were designed by a French engineer and will remind you of the bridges in Paris. Both bridges have separate walkways. The walkways may be too narrow for some bicycle trailers.
S 101 Florence, 49 mi
The route is rather hilly on the way to Florence. You have a full paved shoulder. There is a Fred Meyers grocery store on your right as you enter Florence. A little further into town, there is a laundromat on your left. Shortly after you leave Florence, you enter the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. At times, the enormous, white sand dunes hug the highway. Some of the dunes are four stories tall.
S 101 Coos Bay, 49 mi
You ride next to bays and lakes. The route is mostly flat. You have a full paved shoulder. There is a very long bridge a few miles before you get to Coos Bay. I recommend using the pedestrian walkway. If you decide to use the pedestrian walkway, however, you are required to walk your bicycle. In Coos Bay, Hwy 101 has two lanes in each direction separated by a city block. In the downtown area, look to your right and you will see impressive wall murals with portraits of the Oregon long distance running star Steve Prefontaine. As you depart Coos Bay, look to your left on the other side of the northbound lanes and you will see a Fred Meyers and a Safeway situated next to each other.
S 101 Bandon, 24 mi
The route is very hilly. You have a full paved shoulder. I was expecting it to take two hours to ride from Coos Bay to Bandon but it actually took me three hours. When you arrive in Bandon, there is a Ray’s grocery store on your right. There is a Glacier water machine outside Ray’s grocery store. There is a laundromat and a Subway in the same shopping center as Ray’s. In downtown Bandon, South Coast Bicycles sits next to Hwy 101 on your right. This is a full service bicycle shop with expert mechanics. On one trip, I had a nice conversation with the owner. He had raced against Lance Armstrong in the Tour de France! Needless to say, I was very impressed!
S 101 Port Orford, 27 mi
This forested section takes you away from the seaside. Stealth camping spots are plentiful. This section is somewhat hilly. You have a full paved shoulder. When you enter Port Orford, there is a Dollar General on your left. A little further down, there is a laundromat on your left. In the middle of town, there is a Ray’s grocery store on your right.
S 101 Gold Beach, 28 mi
This section is somewhat hilly. You have a full paved shoulder. In Gold Beach, you will pass a McKay’s grocery store and a Ray’s grocery store. Both stores are on your right.
S 101 Brookings, 28 mi
This section is mostly flat. You have a full paved shoulder. Just before you get to Brookings, you will cross a very beautiful art deco bridge across the Rogue river. The bridge has a pedestrian walkway. Brookings is a larger town with every amenity. You will pass a Fred Meyers grocery store on your right.
S 101 Crescent City, California (12), 26 mi
Hwy 101 hugs the sea shore. You have a full paved shoulder. If you stay on Hwy 101, you will pass a small discount grocery store on your right. I didn’t see any other grocery stores immediately adjacent to Hwy 101.
S 101 Klamath, 22 mi
There is a lot of climbing on this section. You wind through magnificent groves of coastal redwood trees. Hwy 101 is renowned as the “Redwood Highway.” This section is among the most beautiful sections on the entire route. Whenever there is an uphill section, there is usually a climbing lane. The introduction of a climbing lane reduces the width of the shoulder. At times you only have a minimal mini-shoulder. The road surfaces are excellent, however, and there are no outside rumble strips. Klamath has only a casino and an adjacent convenience store.
S 101 Eureka, 63 mi
You will be climbing moderate grades about one third of the time. Whenever there is a climbing lane, your full shoulder will be replaced with a mini-shoulder. Just before you get to Eureka, there are huge eucalyptus trees to your right. I always look for the first giant redwood tree along the route. Then, I look for the first eucalyptus tree. The strong camphor smell from eucalyptus trees makes them unsuitable for camping spots. There is a small Walmart in Eureka. It is located on your right, hidden behind Bayshore Mall.
S 101 Garberville, 67 mi
Hwy 101 becomes a limited access freeway. Fortunately, bicycles are allowed. You will still see “Share The Road” and bicycle route signs along the freeway. Be extremely careful crossing entrance and exit ramps. Road signs on Hwy 101 indicate several scenic loops off Hwy 101 for the Avenue of the Giants. The groves of redwood trees on these loops are spectacular. These scenic loops are each roughly 20-30 miles long and return to Hwy 101. You will cross the Eel river half a dozen times. All the bridges have acceptable shoulders. There are two exits for Garberville. They are both easy on, easy off. In Garberville, you will find a Ray’s grocery store. There is a Glacier water machine outside Ray’s. Next door to Ray’s is a very nice espresso cafe with convenient electrical outlets. Departing Garberville, about one half mile south on Hwy 101, there are two truck parking areas on your right. At the south end of the second truck parking area, next to the guardrail, there is excellent stealth camping to your right.
S 101 Leggett, 23 mi
About forty-five minutes south of Garberville, you enter Richardson Grove State Park. You lose your full shoulder on this narrow, winding section. Be sure to watch for trucks. This is one of the most beautiful sections on the entire route. Magnificent redwood trees hug both sides of the road. I recommend spending the night at the Richardson Grove State Park campground. I consider this campground to be the crown jewel of state park campgrounds just as the Two Medicine Campground in Glacier National Park is the crown jewel of national park campgrounds. When you get to Leggett, exit Hwy 101 and proceed on Hwy 1 toward Ft. Bragg. This intersection is clearly marked.
S 1 Ft. Bragg, 43 mi
This section is very hilly. Ft. Bragg is a beautiful seaside resort town. You will pass a Starbucks on your left. It is almost impossible to find good stealth camping spots in Ft. Bragg. I recommend staying in a hotel for one night and taking a walk on the beach. Turn left onto eastbound Hwy 20. This intersection is clearly marked.
E 20 Willits, 35 mi
This section is heavily forested. You have only a mini-shoulder. Watch for logging trucks and get off the road whenever you see a truck approaching, even when there is no oncoming traffic. The truck drivers on this section passed me with inches to spare even when there was no oncoming traffic!Stealth camping spots are plentiful. When you arrive in Willits, turn right onto Main St. to continue on eastbound Hwy 20. This intersection is clearly marked. Immediately after you turn right, there is a Safeway on your left. There is a Glacier water machine outside the Safeway. Proceed south on Main St. for approximately two miles to Hwy 101. The entrance ramp for southbound Hwy 101 has a sign which says “No Pedestrians.” Fortunately, at the bottom of the sign, it says “Bicycles OK.” Hwy 20 eastbound joins southbound Hwy 101 for the next 12 miles. Follow the signs to exit Hwy 101 and continue on eastbound Hwy 20. Bicycles are not allowed on southbound Hwy 101 past the Hwy 20 exit.
E 20 Lucerne, 45 mi
Hwy 20 crosses California’s rugged coastal range. You will be climbing long gentle grades. You have a full paved shoulder. After a few miles, you enter the spectacular Blue Lakes Recreation Area. Beautiful Lake Mendocino sits off to your right. Occasionally, there are breathtaking views of the lake. It is easy to find stealth camping spots.
E 20 Williams, 51 mi
The route is very hilly as you continue across the coastal range. You have a full, paved shoulder most of the time. After a rain or a heavy dew, the air becomes very aromatic. The smell of anise and lemon grass delights the senses. About ten miles before you get to Williams, you descend into California’s fertile central valley. The route becomes perfectly flat. Groves of almond trees stretch into the distance in every direction. The sandy loam is the most beautiful soil I have ever seen. I have read that it requires one gallon of water to produce each individual almond. The canals, water pumps, and irrigation systems necessary to support these agricultural riches are spread across the landscape. Almonds are incredibly nutritious. I am grateful for the ingenuity, investment, and hard work that produce one of my favorite foods!
E 20 Colusa, 10 mi
With its palm trees, shady streets, and numerous coffee shops, Colusa is as beautiful as it is charming.
E 20 Yuba City, 24 mi
This section is flat. You have a full paved shoulder. Follow Hwy 20 through Yuba City. You will pass a Walmart on your left and a laundromat on your right. Yuba City is a larger town with every amenity.
E 20 Marysville, 2 mi
Marysville is immediately adjacent to Yuba City. You will cross a bridge into Marysville. Be sure to use the pedestrian walk over the bridge.
E 20 Grass Valley, 34 mi
This rural section is very hilly. You have a full, paved shoulder. The only amenities are a couple of gas stations along the way.
S 49 Auburn, 24 mi
The intersection with Hwy 49 is clearly marked. Unfortunately, there is a “no bicycles” sign at the entrance to Hwy 49. Proceed through this intersection and take the first right onto Whiting Ave. Proceed south, parallel to Hwy 49, on Whiting Ave., for approximately three miles. Turn right onto McKnight Ave. and proceed two blocks to the intersection with Hwy 49. There are no signs prohibiting bicycles on the southbound entrance ramp. The freeway ends just past this entrance ramp. Bicycles are allowed on southbound Hwy 49 from this point on. There is an IGA grocery store and a laundromat just west of this intersection on McKnight Ave. in the shopping center to your left.
When you get to Auburn, the road signs are inadequate. Because cars are directed onto a freeway and then off again back onto Hwy 49, there is a lack of signage for those proceeding into Auburn. Ride straight ahead on Hwy 49 all the way through Auburn. You will pass a Panera Bread on your left. You will also pass several Starbucks and several grocery stores. Hwy 49 enters the beautiful Auburn historic district and dead ends at Auburn City Hall. Turn left onto Lincoln Way. Proceed a short distance and turn left onto High St. There is an excellent bicycle shop at this intersection. Continue on High St. and follow the signs for Hwy 49.
S 49 Placerville, 27 mi
There is a steep descent as you leave Auburn on Hwy 49. The descent has steep grades, sharp turns, and narrow shoulders. Occasionally, there are turnouts to let cars pass. On the positive side, speed limits are relatively low and cars are forced to pay attention unless they want to hurdle into the abyss. Bottom line, this section of the route is very challenging but still reasonably safe. At the bottom of the hill, you cross a magnificent bridge across the American River and begin a steep climb with road conditions very similar to the descent. This is one of the toughest climbs on the entire route. Pull off the road to rest if necessary. Just past the summit, there are some commercial establishments and a paved bicycle path to your right. The bicycle path runs parallel to Hwy 49 and soon merges with Hwy 49. Road conditions improve markedly. You generally have a generous mini-shoulder. This section is very hilly. You are in the historic gold rush area of California. Historic markers along the way inform you about the gold rush days. In Placerville, Hwy 49 turns several times. These turns are all well-marked.
S 49 Sutter Creek, 30 mi
About twelve miles past Placerville, you descend into California’s Shenandoah Valley. You have a full, paved shoulder. In Sutter Creek, you will pass a Safeway and a Starbucks on your right.
S 49 Angels Camp, 32 mi
The route becomes very hilly again. Road conditions vary. Sometimes, you have a full, paved shoulder. Other times, you have no shoulder at all. Angels Camp is a very beautiful, historic resort town.
S 49 Sonora, 16 mi
Road conditions improve after you depart Angels Camp. The route is very hilly. You enter the New Melones Lake Recreation Area. You will see signs for the cabin where Mark Twain wrote “Roughing It,” the book that first brought him fame. Hwy 49 makes a hard right turn to join Hwy 108 in downtown Sonora. Be sure to watch for this turn.
S 49 Chinese Camp, 10 mi
Approximately fifteen miles past Sonora on Hwy 49/108, there is a sign directing you to turn left toward Yosemite National Park. After you turn left, you will see a sign that says “Chinese Camp four miles.” When you get to Chinese Camp, turn left onto Hwy 120.
E 120 Groveland, 16 mi
Hwy 120 has excellent road surfaces and either full, paved shoulders or acceptable mini-shoulders. A few miles east of Chinese Camp, you begin a long, steep climb to Groveland. There are numerous switchbacks and 6% grades. As you approach the summit, there is an extremely steep section with 9% grades. The climb takes about two hours. There is a nice grocery store on your left in Groveland. There is a Glacier water machine outside the grocery store. There is also a convenient electrical outlet on an outside post next to the grocery carts. As you depart Groveland headed east on Hwy 120, there is a sign for “Old Hwy 120” on your right. There is excellent stealth camping in the pine forest on the opposite side of the highway across from this sign. From Groveland, it is 24 miles to the entrance to Yosemite National Park and 48 miles to Yosemite Valley.
E 120 Yosemite National Park
From the entrance to Yosemite National Park, continue east on Hwy 120 to the Crane Flat Gas Station. The Crane Flat Gas Station sits at an important intersection that connects three routes: Hwy 120 W back to Groveland, Hwy 41/140 to Yosemite Valley, and Tioga Rd. to Tuolumne Grove and Tioga Pass.
Take Hwy 41/140 to Yosemite Valley.
In my freshman year of college, I purchased a coffee table book containing Ansel Adams’ iconic photographs of Yosemite Valley. I always have a sense of deja vu when I visit Yosemite Valley. I had spent so much time looking at Ansel Adams’ photographs of Yosemite that I immediately recognized the most famous features. There is a general store with groceries and a snack bar in the visitor center in Yosemite Valley. The snack bar has outside seating. Signs on the tables sternly warn tourists not to feed human food to the squirrels because eating human food causes the squirrels to develop “high blood pressure and skin problems.” There are no signs warning humans not to eat the human food!
The Mariposa Grove, a collection of about 500 mature giant sequoias, is located forty-five minutes by shuttle from Yosemite Valley. The Mariposa Grove reopened in 2018 after being closed for a three year, $40 million renovation. Park rangers feared that asphalt covering the root systems of the trees and exhaust fumes from cars was damaging the trees. The renovation involved removing the parking area near the trees, replacing the asphalt with permeable walking paths, and building a new parking area further from the trees. Visitors are encouraged to take a shuttle bus to visit the trees. Inquire at Yosemite Village if you want to take the shuttle bus. John Muir, the famous naturalist, whose writings first called attention to the grandeur of Yosemite, called the giant sequoias the “noblest of God’s trees.” These trees remain very much the way John Muir first saw them more than a century ago.
About that coffee table book…
I lived in a college dormitory and shared a room with a roommate during my freshman year of college. We were both happy to be away from home for the first time and we were both looking forward to making the most of our college years. Because we lived in a co-ed dorm, we were optimistic that at some point there might be an opportunity to invite some female classmates over to our room for popcorn, music, and perhaps a glass of wine. We purchased some wine glasses and candles for our bookshelf. We agreed that a nice homey atmosphere would encourage any visitors to extend their visit or to want to return. We decided we needed a coffee table and a coffee table book to complete the homey atmosphere. My roommate was assigned the task of purchasing a used coffee table and I ordered a coffee table book with Ansel Adams’ photographs of Yosemite. I don’t recall all these preparations being particularly successful with regard to enticing female visitors. The wine glasses became dusty and the candles became dried and cracked.
Later in life, however, I grew accustomed to girlfriends whose first priority was to replace the old coffee table and to select their own candles and throw pillows! Somehow, though, my old Ansel Adams coffee table book endured and always managed to find a home on the new coffee table!
E 120 Tioga Pass
When you return to the Crane Flat Gas Station from Yosemite Valley, follow the signs for “Tuolumne Grove/Nature Bridge” to take Tioga Rd./Hwy 120 E to Tioga Pass and Lee Vining. The climb to Tioga Pass will take the better part of a day. The climb consists of long, straight 6-8% grades. The elevation at Tioga Pass is 9,943 feet. The descent from Tioga Pass to the town of Lee Vining is one of the longest, steepest descents on the entire route. Tioga Pass closes for the winter sometime in November. It is always closed by Thanksgiving. On one trip, I ducked under the barrier gate on Thanksgiving Day and tried to ride over Tioga Pass. It was a very peaceful, sunny day. After a few miles, a profound quiet settled around me. It was pleasant riding without worrying about traffic. Pine needles covered the pavement. I avoided tree limbs, rocks, and even small boulders sitting on the road. I dismounted to walk across icy patches. Near the summit, the road was covered with about a foot of snow and it became physically impossible to push my bicycle and trailer up hill through the snow. I camped for the night near the summit. I melted a pan full of snow with my stove to supplement my supply of drinking water. Two and a half liters of snow only produced about four cups of water! It takes more fuel to melt a pan full of snow than it takes to boil an equivalent amount of water! The next day, I returned to the town of Groveland. Along the way, I stopped to read a historic marker that contained the following account of the first white settlers to cross Tioga Pass:
“In 1833, in a trip that took more than two weeks, Joseph R. Walker led a party of mountain men along a ridge near here. They were the first non-Indians to pass through this area as they crossed the Sierra Nevada. Near starvation they finally found an Indian trail that eventually led them to safety, but not before 24 of their horses succumbed, most of which they had to eat for their own survival.”