I clean the chain (paper towels are handy) and apply my favorite Rock ‘N Roll Red chain lubricant about twice a week. If I ride in the rain, I clean the chain and apply lubricant daily.
I’m embarrassed to admit that I didn’t pay any attention to stretched chains until I started riding 10,000 miles per year. Now, I carry a special gauge to measure when my chain needs to be replaced. Chains cost about $20 and I go through four per year. They last about 2,500 miles.
A stretched chain causes excessive wear on your chain rings and freewheel or cassette and doesn’t shift smoothly. My favorite chain is the SRAM 870 (for 5-8 speed freewheels and cassettes). Purchase the special tool necessary to remove links at your bicycle store. Park makes a nice lightweight one. The first step is to remove the worn chain on your bicycle. Before removing the chain, take a good, long look at exactly how the chain is threaded through the derailleur. Make notes if necessary. It can be tough to take apart a chain by loosening the special link that locks the chain together (bicycle shops have a special tool for this purpose). I find it easier to use my chain tool to push out one of the pins since I’m going to be replacing the chain anyway.
Assuming your old chain is the correct length, make your new chain the exact same length as your old chain using this simple method. Lay the chains side by side and work your way down the chains link by link to make sure the new chain has the exact same number of links as your old chain. A grocery store twist-tie is useful to mark the last link. Remove any extra links with your chain tool and install your new chain.
Almost all chains have a special link which connects and locks each end of the chain. Apply pressure to the pedals to make absolutely sure this link is completely locked on both sides of the chain.
Test ride your bicycle. If the chain skips on the freewheel or cassette, this means the teeth are worn and you will need a new freewheel or cassette. For this reason, I recommend replacing your bicycle chain only when you are near a bicycle shop.
If you are able to master the task of replacing the chain, I promise you that you are perfectly capable of completely disassembling your bike, greasing and adjusting all the bearings, and reassembling your bike. Did you notice how knowing how to replace a stretched chain makes you feel empowered? You are on your way to mastering the most beautiful machine ever devised! If necessary, make a deal to pay your favorite bicycle mechanic to allow you to watch the first time he or she does a complete overhaul. Double check to make sure you have all the necessary tools as each task is completed.
Annoying Bicycle Noises
How are you going to achieve that wonderful meditative state of mind you so dearly love if all you can think about is that slight creaking noise that seems to occur with each stroke of the pedals? The answer, of course, is to get rid of the creaking noise! Bottom bracket creak, pedal creak, brake squeal, and the most dreadful noise of all, bearing pop (flat places on adjacent ball bearings randomly meet and make an occasional, loud popping sound) are not conducive to the Zen state of mind! Fortunately, if you carry bicycle tools and some bicycle grease, you can usually resolve these types of problems.
Start with a simple diagnostic test. Does the noise occur only when pedaling? If so, it likely involves elements of your drive train. In my experience, it is best to start with the pedals. Remove the pedals. (The left pedal has reverse threads, turn right to loosen.) Apply a liberal amount of grease to the pedal threads and tighten very firmly. Apply the same principle to the bottom bracket. Loosen the bearing cups a bit, apply grease to the exposed threads, adjust, and re-tighten very firmly. I have also had issues with creaking handlebar stems that needed grease, noisy freewheels that needed a few drops of Tri-Flow lubricant, and squeaky chains and idler pulleys that needed Rock ‘N Roll chain lubricant. Most annoying bicycle noises are easy to resolve.