May 7th to June 7th
511 miles
Summary of Road Conditions
Numbers in parentheses refer to the page number for the relevant map in the Rand McNally Road Atlas. The mileage figure next to each city is the distance from the preceding city. Mileage is calculated from city to city based on Google Map’s routing engine. Along the Natchez Trace and Blue Ridge Parkways, the mileage figures refer to the highway mile markers.
Starting in Pigeon Forge, TN (95)
S 441 Gatlinburg, 7 mi
Hwy 441 is comfortable to ride on with a combination of paved shoulders and mini-shoulders, although traffic is heavy. Try to avoid weekends and holidays. I usually take the Gatlinburg bypass to avoid city traffic in Gatlinburg. The bypass adds about thirty minutes of hard climbing to a day that already has lots of climbing, however. There is less climbing but more traffic if you proceed through Gatlinburg.
S 441 Great Smoky Mountains National Park
There is no entrance fee for Great Smoky Mountains National Park. As you enter the park, the leafy, green canopy provides welcome shade and coolness. The profusion of plant life is simply astounding. During the last ice age, plants and animals were forced south and joined the existing flora and fauna in the Smoky Mountains. I have read that this national park has greater biodiversity than almost any other place on earth. The park is a temperate rain forest, one of the rarest of habitats.
S 441 Newfound Gap Summit, mile marker 14
The ride from the Great Smoky Mountains National Park entrance to the Newfound Gap Summit is one of the most difficult and relentless climbs on the entire route. You will be continuously climbing 6-8% grades for about three hours. The sound of rushing water is a pleasant companion, however, as you climb next to the Little Pigeon River. From Newfound Gap, you follow the Oconaluftee River as you descend. Oconaluftee means “By the Water” in the Cherokee language.
S 441 Cherokee, North Carolina, mile marker 35 (74)
Once you reach the Newfound Gap Summit, it takes less than an hour to descend twenty miles to Cherokee. As you approach Cherokee, there is a Visitor Center on your left where you can stop and pick up a map for the Blue Ridge Parkway. You can also fill your water containers at the Visitor Center. There is a beautiful meadow next to the Visitor Center. You will find the entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway on your left just past the meadow. Hwy 441 curves to your right past the Blue Ridge Parkway entrance and half a mile into Cherokee. You will pass picnic tables covered by a pavilion sitting next to the beautiful Oconaluftee River on your left on your way into Cherokee. Just past the entrance sign marking the boundary for Great Smoky Mountains National Park, as you head into Cherokee, there is excellent stealth camping in the woods on your right.
Blue Ridge Parkway
The Blue Ridge Parkway is one of the world’s most scenic bicycle routes. Most mountain roads go up one side of the mountain and then down the other side. The Blue Ridge Parkway is unique because the parkway runs north and south along the ridge line. You are constantly looking down into the valleys on either side of the ridge line. One overlook looks to the right. The next overlook looks to the left. Up and down you go as you dance back and forth over the ridge line.
As you look into the distance at overlooks along the Blue Ridge Parkway, count the ridge lines as they recede toward the horizon. Often you can count eight or more ridge lines. The distance from where you are standing to each ridge line varies. This variation causes each ridge line to be a different shade of blue. If it’s cloudy or misty, each ridge line is a different shade of gray. These subtle shades of blue and gray give the mountains an air of mystery. The color blue has a power that goes beyond words. When an idea suddenly occurs to us, we remark that “It came to me out of the blue.” The color blue is both inspiring and mysterious.
It takes about ten days to pedal the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will climb 30,000 feet whether you are going north or south on the parkway. That is about 3,000 feet of climbing per day. Almost all of the climbing is on grades of 4-6% with very short sections with grades of 8% or more. Yes, it is very challenging, but I assure you that it is doable. After all, climbing is what the sport of cycling is all about!
Towns and cities along the parkway are all much lower than the parkway. Think twice before leaving the parkway and heading to a city. You may end up having to climb several thousand feet just to get back to the parkway. I exit the parkway in Asheville and Blowing Rock to buy groceries. These exits are relatively easy on easy off.
Be prepared for the numerous, unlighted tunnels along the parkway. I fully charge my bicycle lights and install them on my bicycle before getting on the parkway. I turn them on “flash” mode for each and every tunnel. My first time on the parkway, I entered a long tunnel and experienced a total blackout. I couldn’t see a thing! It was a desperate feeling to dig for a small flashlight in my handlebar bag!
As you begin at the south end of the parkway in Cherokee, be aware that there are no water taps until you reach Mt. Pisgah. That is 60 miles of hard climbing and takes about a day and a half to complete. You can buy small, expensive bottles of water at the ranger station at Waterrock Knob, but there isn’t any potable tap water at Waterrock Knob. There are plenty of creeks if you have a water filter. I conserve my usual water supply and buy two bottles of water at Waterrock Knob because I don’t carry a water filter and because I don’t want to carry any extra water up all the hills.
You can refill your water containers at restrooms along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Restrooms are located near these mile markers: 409, 384, 365, 331, 304, 294, 273, 258, 240, 217, 213, 169, 155, 115, 86, 64, 30, 6.
You will find campgrounds near these Blue Ridge Parkway mile markers: 409, 340, 316, 297, 241, 169, 86, 61.
N Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) southern end, mile 469 (74)
You will start climbing as soon as you get on the parkway. The ride from Cherokee to Mt Pisgah is the most challenging section of the parkway.
N BRP Waterrock Knob, mile 455
There is a ranger station at Waterrock Knob where you can buy snacks and bottles of water ($2 per 20 oz bottle).
N BRP Richland, Balsam Summit, mile 431
With an elevation of 6,053 feet, the Richland, Balsam Summit is the highest point on the parkway. This elevation is just a bit less than the 6,646 foot elevation at Logan’s Pass in Glacier National Park. It is easy to underestimate the rugged Blue Ridge Mountains!
N BRP Mt Pisgah, mile 409
You will find every amenity at Mt Pisgah. The restaurant is excellent but pricey. Refill your water bottles in the restroom next to the restaurant. There is a small store at the opposite end of the parking lot with sandwiches and snacks.
N BRP Asheville, mile 383
It is mostly downhill from Mt Pisgah to Asheville. I take the Hwy 70 exit on the north side of Asheville. Head west on Hwy 70 (Tunnel Rd.). You will pass a Veteran’s Hospital on your right. There is an Ingles grocery store and a McDonald’s on your left. The Ingles has a Starbucks, a deli, and a very nice seating area. Most of the electrical outlets in the Ingles seating area don’t work, however. There is one hidden electrical outlet that does work located up on the wall above the line of trash receptacles and next to a planter. There is great stealth camping as you return to the Blue Ridge Parkway from the Ingles. Simply disappear into the woods on your left just before the stop sign where you turn onto the Blue Ridge Parkway.
The Oakley Coin Laundry in Asheville is about five miles from the Ingles. The route to the laundromat is straightforward. From the Ingles parking lot turn left onto Hwy 70 (Tunnel Rd). At the first traffic signal turn left onto Swannanoa River Rd. Proceed about two miles. Turn left onto Fairview Rd. Cross over I-240. The laundromat is located on your right at 788-A Fairview Rd. Be careful on Swannanoa River Rd. It is narrow and doesn’t have shoulders. Fairview Rd. is comfortable to ride on.
If you want to visit downtown Asheville, simply head west on Hwy 70 (Tunnel Rd.). You will go through a lighted tunnel with protected shoulders for bicycles and pedestrians. It is about four miles to downtown Asheville. Asheville is a very beautiful city. It is well worth your time to explore downtown Asheville.
Take a one week rest break in Asheville, North Carolina.
N BRP Craggy Gardens, mile 365
You begin another relentless climb when you leave Asheville. It is 18 miles to the Craggy Gardens Visitor Center and it is up hill most of the way. I eat lunch at Craggy Gardens. There is a bit of grass at the north end of the parking lot where I prepare lunch. Water is available in the restroom down the stairs next to the Visitor Center.
N BRP Little Switzerland, mile 335
Little Switzerland is an elegant mountain resort located immediately adjacent to the parkway. On cold days, the lobby has a comforting fireplace where you can warm up next to a crackling fire. The lobby also has electrical outlets for charging your devices and restrooms where you can fill your water containers. The restaurant, located in a separate building next door to the lobby, is excellent. On warm, sunny days, food is served on an outdoor deck. On cooler, cloudy days, there is a nice dining room. In either location, the mountain views are breathtaking. There are other businesses located around the parking lot, including an inviting coffee shop serving ice cream. I always look forward to a pleasant stop at Little Switzerland!
N BRP Blowing Rock, mile 292
Blowing Rock is very easy on easy off. Take the second northbound exit for Blowing Rock. Proceed one half mile south on Hwy 321 into Blowing Rock. There is a Speedway Convenience Store on your right with a water faucet on the external wall of the store. There is a Food Lion Grocery Store perched atop a hill on your left. For more grocery store, restaurant, and hotel options, proceed eight miles north on Hwy 321 into Boone. You will find a Walmart and a Starbucks on your left. Hwy 321 has two lanes in each direction and paved shoulders. It is downhill into Boone. The climb back to the parkway is relatively easy, however, with moderate grades.
If you need a laundromat, the 421 East Laundromat is located about a mile and a half from the Starbucks in Boone. From northbound Hwy 321, turn right onto Hwy 221. Proceed about one mile. Turn right onto Hwy 421 south. Hwy 421 is King St. even though there aren’t any signs for King St. The laundromat is located half a block down on your left at 623 E King St. It is much easier to reach the laundromat if you simply cross Hwy 421 and then turn right down the sidewalk. All these roads are bicycle friendly.
N BRP Fancy Gap, Virginia, mile 200 (106)
The Appalachian region has delightful words for the features of the landscape. After only a week on the Blue Ridge Parkway, it seems completely natural to refer to a pass as a “gap,” to label a hill a “knob,” and to set up camp in a “hollow.” Fancy Gap is very easy on easy off. Exit onto Hwy 52 north. There is a convenience store on your left with picnic tables and a water tap behind the store. A little further down, also on you left, is a Dollar General. Fancy Gap also has a restaurant, motels, and campgrounds.
N BRP Mabry Mill, mile 176
Mabry Mill sits on the parkway and has a nice restaurant. This restaurant has reasonable prices compared to the restaurants at Mt Pisgah and Peaks of Otter. If you need a break, this is a very pleasant place to stop.
N BRP Roanoke, mile 120
Exit north onto Hwy 220 to visit Roanoke. Hwy 220 has paved shoulders and is comfortable to ride on, although traffic is extremely heavy. You will find an Outback Restaurant and a Starbucks a short way down on your right. There is a Krogers grocery store located in nearby Tanglewood Mall. From the Starbucks, proceed one half mile north on Hwy 220 to the interchange with Hwy 419. Because you are on a bicycle, you need to exit to the right onto Hwy 419 (Electric Rd.) and then make a U-turn and proceed one half mile in the opposite direction on Hwy 419. The Krogers is in Tanglewood Mall on your right hiding next to a Barnes & Noble. The climb back to the parkway is short (.6 mile) but steep (7% grade).
N BRP Peaks of Otter, mile 86
The facilities at Peaks of Otter are very similar to those found at Mt. Pisgah. Peaks of Otter has every amenity including a hotel and a nice dining room. The dining room overlooks a beautiful lake.
N BRP Humpback Rocks, mile 6
The picnic area at Humpback Rocks is an indispensable source of information regarding the Blue Ridge Parkway. I recommend that you stop and read the very informative displays. You will learn why the Blue Ridge Parkway is considered a work of art, an engineering triumph, and a national treasure!
N BRP Waynesboro, mile 0
Exit onto Hwy 250 westbound into Waynesboro. It is about three miles into town. Approaching Waynesboro, Hwy 250 splits. Take Main St. to the left. Broad St. is to your right. Turn left at Arch St. You will pass a Krogers grocery store on your right. There is a Glacier water machine located outside the Krogers. Continue on Arch St. to 14th St. Turn left at 14th St. and proceed to a grassy field where you will find the free hiker campground. The campground has solar powered electrical outlets and a covered picnic table. The campground does not have water. Yes, you are a hiker! Did you notice the hiking trails along the Blue Ridge Parkway? They are part of the Appalachian Trail. Imagine taking a brief stroll down one of the hiking paths. You are now an imaginary hiker! Pick up a pink hiker’s camping permit at the nearby YMCA.
BZ laundromat is located about a mile from the campground at 141 E. Broad St. Waynesboro also has a Walmart, a Starbucks, a Panera Bread, and a Cracker Barrel. These businesses are all located about four miles from the campground. Take Arch St. back to Main St. Turn left on Main St. and proceed about one mile. At the traffic signal just before the McDonald’s turn left onto Rosser Ave. Proceed about two miles. The Walmart, Starbucks, Panera Bread, and Cracker Barrel are all close together on your right. All of these streets are bicycle friendly.
Waynesboro is a magical place for me. At the hiker campground in Waynesboro, I have met a professional cyclist from Switzerland who had competed in the Giro de Italia bicycle race; a local artist who invited me to his home to see his ceramic sculpture of Eddie Merckx, the famous cyclist; a student from Belgium who wrote his Master’s thesis on the American movie director, John Ford; a neurosurgeon from New York City enjoying a trout fishing adventure; an entertaining dude from England with the trail name “Mr. Bean”; a local “Man Who Planted Trees”; and lots of other interesting people!
Take a one week rest break in Waynesboro, Virginia.