August 15th to August 21st
422 miles
Summary of Road Conditions
Numbers in parentheses refer to the page number for the relevant map in the Rand McNally Road Atlas. The mileage figure next to each city is the distance from the preceding city. Mileage is calculated from city to city based on Google Map’s routing engine.
Starting in Sandpoint, Idaho (31)
W 2 Priest River, 22 mi
From the Walmart parking lot in Sandpoint, proceed south on the bike path which runs parallel to Hwy 95. After a short distance, you will arrive at a McDonald’s restaurant. The bike path appears to end but actually continues on the other side of Hwy 95 next to a Subway restaurant. Continue on the bike path about three miles and it will take you to City Beach in downtown Sandpoint. At the point where the bike path ends, turn right on Beach St. and proceed one block to 1st Ave. Turn right on 1st Ave. Almost immediately, turn left on Church St. Proceed several blocks to 5th Ave. Turn left on 5th Ave. and follow the flow of traffic. 5th Ave. turns and becomes Pine St. You are now on west bound Hwy 2. After a short distance, you will see a bike path on your right which runs parallel to Hwy 2. Be sure to stay on the bike path until Hwy 2 has a full paved shoulder. Once Hwy 2 has a full paved shoulder, move over to Hwy 2. You will pass a Super 1 grocery store on your right in the small town of Priest River.
W 2 Newport, Washington (109), 7 mi
As you ride toward Newport, you will see ample evidence that the local economy is based on extracting natural resources from the land. Logging trucks pass by frequently. You pass saw mills and paper mills. Gravel pits and quarries scar the land. In Newport, there is an intersection where Hwy 2 bends to the left towards Spokane. Continue straight ahead onto Hwy 20 towards Colville. This intersection is clearly marked. Hwy 20 is one of the world’s most magnificent bicycle routes. You will be traveling west on Hwy 20 for the next four hundred miles. The mile markers on Hwy 20 count down the number of miles remaining until you arrive at the Pacific ocean. Hwy 20 has excellent road surfaces, generous mini-shoulders without rumble strips, and glorious scenery. Stealth camping spots are plentiful the entire way.
W 20 Colville, 64 mi
The route to Colville is very scenic. You are traveling through the beautiful Selkirk Valley along the Pend Oreille River. The views of the lakes formed by the river are breathtaking. Shortly before you reach the town of Iona, Hwy 20 makes a sharp left turn towards Colville. This intersection is clearly marked. The Tiger Store and Historical Center sits at this intersection. The building containing the store was built in 1912. Tiger was the last name of a prominent early settler. There is a picnic table outside the store. The display cases next to the picnic table contain a wealth of historical information. I am fascinated to learn that the Native Americans in the area were primarily vegetarians. The Tiger Store is open from June to September and sells snacks and cold drinks. A sign in the restrooms warns that the water is not potable. Continue on Hwy 20 and you will soon begin a long steep climb. You will be climbing continuously for about an hour. At the summit, the view opens up and there is a beautiful meadow on your left. The rest of the way to Colville is mostly flat or gradually downhill. There are just a few hills including one steep hill just before you get to Colville. In Colville, continue on Hwy 20 to the intersection with Main St. There is a traffic signal at this intersection but no signs indicating which way to turn to continue on Hwy 20. Turn right onto Main St. to continue on Hwy 20 westbound. Hwy 20 joins Hwy 395. Occasionally, you will see signs that mention Hwy 395 but do not mention Hwy 20. Don’t be concerned. Hwy 20 follows Hwy 395 for the next eleven miles. There is a Safeway store on your left as soon as you turn onto Main St. A little further down, there is a Walmart on your right.
W 20/395 Kettle Falls, 9 mi
Follow Hwy 20/395 to Kettle Falls. There is a Harvest grocery store on your right in Kettle Falls. I didn’t see any good stealth camping spots between Colville and Kettle Falls. As soon as you depart Kettle Falls, however, the pine trees resume and stealth camping spots are plentiful. A few miles past Kettle Falls, there is a two lane bridge without shoulders over the Columbia River. I wait until no cars are approaching and sprint over the bridge. As soon as you cross the bridge, turn left onto Hwy 20. This intersection is clearly marked. You begin climbing as soon as you turn.
W 20 Sherman Pass, mile marker 320
The climb to Sherman Pass is beautiful but very strenuous. It is one of the most difficult climbs on the entire route. At times the grade is 9%. There aren’t any switchbacks, just long, straight, continuous grades. Logging trucks are a constant menace. The climb takes about three hours. There is a national forest campground on your right at the Sherman Overlook just before the summit. The elevation at the Sherman Pass summit is 5,575 feet.
W 20 Republic, 44 mi (from Kettle Falls)
The descent to Republic is exhilarating. You may need a jacket and gloves as you descend. As soon as you enter Republic, there is a Cenex gas station on your right. It has a convenience store with many grocery items. It also has a very nice restaurant. Continue on Hwy 20 for a few miles and you enter downtown Republic. You will pass by two small grocery stores in downtown Republic.
W 20 Wauconda Summit, mile marker 289
The climb to the Wauconda Summit is very easy. There are two short climbs of about thirty minutes each with a flat section separating the climbs. Then there is a longer climb to the summit which takes about an hour. You leave the Colville National Forest and enter the Okanogan National Forest. The elevation at the Wauconda Summit is 4,310 feet.
W 20 Tonasket, 40 mi (from Republic)
There are just a few hills on the way to Tonasket as you traverse a beautiful valley. Suddenly, you will notice that the terrain becomes very desert like. I am always surprised by the sudden change. The pine trees mostly disappear. There are two long descents as you approach Tonasket. As you descend, you can feel the temperature rise. It is usually very hot in Tonasket in August. In Tonasket, you arrive at the intersection with Hwy 97. Hwy 20 follows Hwy 97 to Omak. Turn left at this intersection. This intersection is clearly marked. On your right at this intersection is a Mobil station with indoor seating. There is a water faucet on the exterior wall of the store to the far right. The water quality is excellent. Next door to the Mobil station is a laundromat.
W 20/97 Omak, 24 mi
Hwy 20 follows Hwy 97 alongside the beautiful Okanogan River. The route is mostly flat. You are in a harsh desert but irrigation provides water for hay fields. The contrast between the surrounding desert and the lush, green hay fields is very striking. When you arrive in Omak, there is a traffic signal next to a Safeway. Across the highway from Safeway is a Walmart.
W 20 Loup Loup Pass, mile marker 214
Continue on Hwy 20/97 past Omak for about five miles. Hwy 20 separates from Hwy 97 and makes a hard right turn towards Twisp. This intersection is clearly marked. You travel a short distance into the tiny town of Okanogan where you turn left to follow Hwy 20. This intersection is clearly marked. You pass by beautiful apple and cherry orchards as you begin to climb. After a few miles, the climb becomes very steep. You will climb for about 40 minutes. There is a brief respite, then the climbing, much less steep than before, resumes for another two hours. The descent to the town of Twisp has fabulous views of the rugged North Cascade Mountains.
W 20 Twisp, 37 mi
You cross the Twisp River just before you enter the town of Twisp. The bridge has full paved shoulders which are very comfortable for cyclists. Twisp is a beautiful resort town. As soon as you enter Twisp, you will see Hank’s Harvest Foods on your left. This is an excellent grocery store with lots of healthy selections. There is a pleasant indoor seating area. My favorite spot is in one of the roomy booths under the windows. There is one electrical outlet just to the right of the row of booths. There is a laundromat next door to Hank’s Harvest Foods.
W 20 Winthrop, 9 mi
Hwy 20 follows the Methow River through the incredibly beautiful Methow Valley. This section is relatively flat. This is one of the most beautiful sections on the entire route. Winthrop is a wealthy resort community. There is a very nice grocery store on your right as you enter Winthrop. There are two bridges over the Methow River in Winthrop and Hwy 20 makes several sharp turns. It is very important to watch for the signs indicating which way to turn to stay on Hwy 20. All the turns are well marked but it is easy to miss one of the signs announcing the turns while you are busy admiring the shops, restaurants, and coffee shops!
W 20 Mazama, 20 mi
Hwy 20 bypasses Mazama. Turn right at the well marked intersection to visit the outstanding Mazama Store and Deli which sits about a quarter mile off of Hwy 20. I highly recommend visiting the Mazama Store. It is a combination of natural foods store and espresso cafe. It is a lovely place to sit and enjoy a snack before you begin the long climb to Washington Pass. Cycling is very popular in the area and you are likely to see other cyclists who have also decided to stop for a rest break at the Mazama Store.
W 20 Washington Pass, mile marker 162
The mountains are spectacular on this section. You will look up at rocky crags worthy of comparison to the Swiss Alps. You will hear rushing creeks and you will see snow remaining in areas of deep shade. The climb is similar in difficulty to the climb to Sherman Pass and takes about three hours. There are two extraordinary switchbacks as you approach the summit. The views are simply astounding as one looks down from these switchbacks into the valley below. The elevation at Washington Pass is 5,477 feet. There are numerous national forest campgrounds along the way. Stealth camping spots are also plentiful.
W 20 Rainy Pass, mile marker 156
It is just a few miles from Washington Pass to Rainey Pass. There is a descent followed by a short climb to Rainey Pass. The climb only takes a few minutes. The elevation at Rainey Pass is 4,855 feet.
W 20 Newhalem, 40 mi
The ride to Newhalem is gorgeous. You ride beside beautiful rivers and lakes. The lakes are formed by a series of three dams. The ride is mostly downhill. In Newhalem, you will see a park on your left with an antique steam locomotive. The children in the park really seem to love the steam locomotive! The park has several picnic tables. Next to the park is the Skagit General Store which has groceries and snacks. Across the parking lot from the general store is the Skagit Information Center. There is a free filtered water dispenser just outside the front door of the information center.
W 20 Concrete, 32 mi
The route is gently downhill as you follow the Skagit River. In the town of Concrete, there is a medium sized grocery store on your left. About seven miles past Concrete, you will see a sign indicating a left turn towards Rasar State Park. If you need a place to camp, turn left at the sign onto Russell Rd. and proceed about two miles. You will pass a red fire station on your left. Just past the fire station, turn right and follow the signs another mile or so to Rasar State Park. Camping in the hiker/biker area costs $12 per night. Each camping spot is nestled beneath majestic Douglas fir trees. Beneath the canopy of trees, there is a profusion of ferns and mossy ground. This is the quietest, greenest, most peaceful campground I have ever visited!
W 20 Burlington, 29 mi
The route is gently downhill as you continue to follow the Skagit River. You have a full, paved shoulder. If you need to visit a good bicycle shop, turn south on Burlington Blvd. Because Burlington Blvd. is not comfortable for cyclists, I recommend riding on the sidewalk. Skagit Cycle is located on your left at 1704 S. Burlington Blvd. There is a Walmart located close to Skagit Cycle. To visit the Walmart, continue south on Burlington Blvd. Cross the bridge over the Skagit River and take the first right after you cross the bridge. Continue under the interstate and you will see a Walmart on your left. There is a bicycle path behind the Walmart that leads to an area that provides decent stealth camping. Stealth camping in Burlington is not for the faint of heart, however, because you will likely be sharing this camping area with local homeless people.
W 20 Oak Harbor, 29 mi
The route becomes hilly and the air becomes chilly as you approach the Pacific ocean. There is a major intersection at the top of a hill where Hwy 20 bends to the left toward Oak Harbor. This intersection is clearly marked with signs directing you to get in the left lane. Stay on the right shoulder until you are adjacent to this intersection. Then carefully move to the left lane when traffic permits. There is no need to stress out over this intersection if you proceed slowly and deliberately. It is 34 miles from this intersection to the ferry boat landing where you will board a ferry that will take you to Port Townsend. The route to Oak Harbor has a mixture of generous mini-shoulders and full, paved shoulders. In Oak Harbor, however, I recommend riding on the sidewalk next to Hwy 20 to avoid the heavy traffic. You will pass a Safeway and a Walmart situated together on your right. There is a stand alone Starbucks on your left across from the Safeway.
There is nothing boring about this section of the route! Fighter jets roar overhead from the nearby Whidbey Island Naval Air Station. For once, the roar of motorcycles and big, noisy pickups is completely drowned out! In Deception Pass, you will cross one of tallest, narrowest bridges in the world. The pedestrian walkway is too narrow to accommodate my bicycle trailer so I take a full traffic lane and sprint across the bridge. On the other side of the bridge, I park my bicycle and walk back on the pedestrian walkway to take pictures of the bay from the bridge. There is an urban legend that one of the Navy “Top Gun” pilots at the Naval Air Station illegally flew his jet under the bridge! At least two local residents tell me that this actually happened! The story makes me want to re-watch the Tom Cruise movie, “Top Gun!”
Washington State is certainly a fascinating place with cannabis shops seemingly on every corner and with the “Lady Bird Bikini Espresso” shops with their full length windows next to the drive through lane! Entrepreneurship is alive and well in this part of America! The most amazing thing about Washington State, however, is the profusion of wild blackberries during the summer months. It would not be much of an exaggeration to say that the whole state is a giant blackberry patch! In places, the blackberries even extend their long tendrils onto the shoulders of the highways! The warm, ripe, and very plump blackberries are a dream come true! After a half hour spent picking blackberries as fast as I can eat them, I have purple finger tips, a purple tongue, and forearms that look like pin cushions!
W 20 Coupeville, 11 mi
As you approach Coupeville, you will see a pedestrian bridge over Hwy 20. Just past the pedestrian bridge is a traffic signal. Turn right at the traffic signal onto Main St. and head into Coupeville. You will pass a grocery store on your right and a laundromat on your left.
Ferry boat to Port Townsend
Continue on Main St. through Coupeville and it will take you directly to the Port Townsend ferry landing. You have full paved shoulders the whole way. It is five miles to the ferry landing from Coupeville. When you arrive at the ferry landing, you will see a line of cars waiting to purchase tickets at two manned kiosks. Get in line behind the cars. A one way ticket for a cyclist costs $4.80. There is a senior discount for anyone 65 or older. The ferry boats depart every thirty minutes. Cyclists are supposed to wait next to the bike rack adjacent to the ferry landing. Pedestrians and cyclists board first. The ferry ride to Port Townsend takes about thirty minutes.