October 21st to November 14th
781 miles
Summary of Road Conditions
Numbers in parentheses refer to the page number for the relevant map in the Rand McNally Road Atlas. The mileage figure next to each city is the distance from the preceding city. Mileage is calculated from city to city based on Google Map’s routing engine.
Starting in Taos, NM (68)
The Hwy 64 truck bypass (Hwy 585) has bicycle lanes on both sides and light traffic. Majestic mountains on all sides suggest that you will soon be climbing and enjoying one of the world’s most spectacular bicycle rides! After a few miles, you arrive at a stop sign at the intersection of Hwy 585 and Hwy 64. Turn right onto Hwy 64 to begin your journey through Taos Canyon. I love bicycle routes that follow rivers and creeks because the pedaling generally feels effortless. In the case of Taos Canyon, you are steadily climbing but the hills are gentle and the mountain scenery is glorious. You occasionally pass expensive homes. I think to myself, “The boutique hotels, luxury spas, gourmet bistros, and bespoke gift shops are on their way!” Traffic is light. The highway is shoulderless but the adjacent unpaved shoulder is smooth. I am able to ride on the center of the white line and hop on the unpaved shoulder when necessary. The air is clean and crisp.
E 64 Angel Fire, 24 mi
The summit at Palo Flechado Pass is 9,101 feet. The name of the pass is attributed to the Flecha de Palo Apache band which was first mentioned by Juan de Ulibari in 1706. After a precipitous descent, you arrive in a magnificent valley. Breathtaking meadows and lakes stretch into the distance. The wide open spaces feel refreshing after the steep roadsides in Taos Canyon. These sudden changes in topography are enthralling. No matter the extent of man’s footprint on the earth, the contours of the land remain unchanged since that time when they were first forged in the inferno of our planet’s creation. You will pass a turn-off to Angel Fire on your right. Continue straight ahead on Hwy 64.
E 64 Cimarron, 36 mi
At the eastern end of the valley, you will pass a convenience store with nice outdoor seating on your left. There is a short steep climb just past the convenience store as you exit the valley. Following this climb, you begin your descent through Cimarron Canyon. This is one of the most beautiful bicycle rides in all of America! Cimarron Canyon is even more beautiful than Spearfish Canyon! You are following a crystal clear creek. The highway dances from one curve to the next. The creek passes back and forth under the highway. Magnificent cliffs soar into the sky and “Shuffle Play” selects this precise moment to play two beautiful songs from my playlist “Chasing Spring.” These two songs perfectly complement my surroundings. “You Don’t Know What Love Is” by Sonny Rollins is followed by “To Bring You My Love” by P J Harvey. The bass in “To Bring You My Love” hits each time the creek passes under the highway! This is the moment I decide to call my website “Bicycle Joy!” You continue your descent to the small town of Cimarron. You will pass a small grocery store and a laundromat on your right. The elevation in Cimarron is 6,400 feet.
E 64/N I-25 Raton, 42 mi
You have a full paved shoulder on this section. Turn left onto I-25 and proceed three miles to Raton. It is perfectly legal to ride on the shoulder on this short stretch of I-25. Turn right at the second exit (Exit 451) to continue east on Hwy 64. There is a Subway restaurant and a Chevron convenience store at this exit. If you need more services, turn left on Hwy 64 in order to visit Raton.
E 64 Capulin, 29 mi
As you leave Raton, it feels like you can see forever! You are on the western edge of the Great Plains! It is clear sailing (sometimes literally depending on the direction of the wind) all the way to the foothills of the Appalachian mountains! You enjoy wide, paved shoulders on this section of the route. Traffic is light and stealth camping spots are plentiful. In Capulin, you will pass the Capulin Country Store on your left. The Capulin Country Store is a friendly place to purchase snacks and to pick-up a brochure with information about the Capulin Volcano National Monument. Eat your snacks and read your brochure while seated on the pleasant outside benches. For a once in a lifetime cycling experience, take Volcano Road to the Capulin Volcano summit and hike Crater Rim Trail. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Texas!
E 64 Clayton, 54 mi
On this section, Hwy 64 is a divided highway with generous paved shoulders. Clayton is a medium sized city with every amenity. There is a Dollar General on your left as you enter Clayton. After another mile or so there is a grocery store, also on your left. As you depart Clayton, there is a Subway restaurant on your right.
E 87 Texline, Texas (98), 11 mi
Continue straight ahead as Hwy 64 merges seamlessly into Hwy 87. The shoulders are exceptionally smooth. In Texas, you will almost always have paved shoulders.
E 87 Dalhart, 36 mi
Dalhart is a medium-sized city with every amenity. There is a Wendy’s restaurant on your left as you depart Dalhart. You will make excellent progress across the perfectly flat landscape. This is a very productive agricultural region. Train tracks beside the highway make sleeping difficult at times for weary stealth campers. The train horns blast away at highway crossings. Fortunately, I am very tired and quickly fall back to sleep!
S 385 Hereford, 95 mi
Turn right onto Hwy 385 just past the tiny town of Hartley. This intersection is clearly marked. In the small town of Vega there is a Dollar General on your left. You will cross under I-40. There are motels and truck stops next to the interstate. As you enter Hereford, there is a Walmart on your right. Continue across town on Hwy 385 to the intersection with Hwy 60. Motels and fast food restaurants are clustered around this intersection.
S 385 Littlefield, 65 mi
To stay on Hwy 385, watch carefully for road signs as Hwy 385 makes several turns in Littlefield.
S 385 Levelland, 24 mi
You will pass a grocery store on your left. Hwy 385 makes a sharp left turn as you depart Levelland. This turn is clearly marked. Proceed about two miles and there is a free RV park on your left where you can camp.
S 385 Brownfield, 30 mi
Hwy 385 is reduced to two lanes but you still have paved shoulders.
S 385 Seminole, 41 mi
If you need to purchase groceries in Seminole, turn right at the first traffic signal and proceed two miles to a small Walmart on your right. There is excellent stealth camping near the Walmart.
S 385 Andrews, 29 mi
You enjoy a four lane divided highway with smooth paved shoulders on this section. There is no need to take the truck bypass around Andrews. Just proceed straight ahead. Hwy 385 becomes Main St. You will find a McDonald’s and truck stops on your left as you depart Andrews.
S 385 Odessa, 35 mi
A seemingly endless number of Game Rooms, Dollar General stores, nail salons, and advertisements for accident attorneys punctuate your journey through a soulless commercial wasteland. Hwy 385 becomes Andrews Highway. Just proceed straight ahead and follow the flow of traffic. The whole way through Odessa, I only noticed one small Loews grocery store on the left. Eventually, you pass under Interstate 20. There are a few hotels at this intersection. Proceed straight ahead to continue toward Crane on Hwy 385.
S 385 Crane, 32 mi
In Crane, Hwy 385 becomes Gaston Ave. Turn right on 6th St. to continue towards Grand Falls on Hwy 329. If you continue on Gaston Ave, you will find a Dollar General and a Porter’s grocery store located together on your right at the edge of town. As you depart Crane on Hwy 329, there is a laundromat on your right. A little further out of town, there is excellent stealth camping in the unfenced desert on your left.
W 329 Grand Falls, 31 mi
The intersection with Hwy 18 is well marked. Turn left to head towards Ft. Stockton. Turn right on Hwy 18 and there is a convenience store a short way down on your left.
S 18 Ft Stockton, 32 mi
In Ft. Stockton, you pass under Interstate 10. Hwy 18 becomes Front St. Proceed one mile to the first traffic signal and turn left. Follow the signs for Hwy 385 and Big Bend National Park. There is a Family Dollar store on your right just past the intersection with Hwy 385. There is a Glacier water machine outside the Family Dollar store. Be sure to fill all your water containers. There are no services between Ft. Stockton and Marathon.
S 385 Marathon, 59 mi
This is an extremely beautiful, isolated stretch with very light traffic. Mountainous foothills loom in the direction of Big Bend National Park. You have a full paved shoulder the entire way. It is easy to find stealth camping spots. There is a very nice picnic area on your right at about the halfway point. You will see a sign stating that you are “Entering Sierra Madera Astrobleme.” The Sierra Madera Astrobleme is a meteorite crater. The central peak of the rebound structure of the impact crater rises 793 ft above the surrounding land. This peak is visible from Hwy 385 in the vicinity of the sign. The diameter of the crater is 8 miles. The age of the crater is 100 million years.
Shortly before you reach Marathon, there is an especially interesting historical marker on your right which tells the story of the Comanche War Trail. After a prolonged drought around 1250 AD, the Eastern Shoshone migrated to the great plains. Their warlike presence caused them to become known as Komantsu, enemy. Thousands of horses were freed during the Pueblo revolt of 1680. Within a single generation, the Comanche mastered the horse. The Comanche used a system of invasion routes into Northern Mexico that became known as the Comanche War Trail. The raids were timed with the rainy season when pasture and water were optimal. A large part of the local population in Northern Mexico went into hiding during this season. Those that were captured were forced to walk hundreds of miles north to the Comanche homeland. Historians report a mile wide path stamped into the desert littered with the bones of horses and captives who died along the way.
W 90 Alpine, 31 mi
This section has a few gentle hills. You have a nice paved shoulder. The rugged high desert vistas are breathtaking. As you enter Alpine, Sul Ross University is on your right. There is a Dollar General on your left across the street from the university. A little further down there is a Subway restaurant on your left. There is a McDonald’s at the point where Hwy 90 separates into one-way streets running east and west and separated by one city block. Continue westbound on E St. for a few blocks and there is a Porter’s grocery store on your left. Turn right on 5th St. and you are on Hwy 118 headed north towards Ft. Davis. You will pass a laundromat on your left as you depart Alpine.
N 118 Ft Davis, 24 mi
This is one of my favorite sections. It is isolated, peaceful, and has very light traffic. There is a full paved shoulder all the way to Ft. Davis. The mountain vistas are breathtaking. There are a few steep climbs along the way, but for the most part you have a gentle uphill grade. Ft. Davis, at 5,000 ft elevation, has the highest elevation of any town in Texas. As you descend into Ft. Davis, you can see white dome structures peeking over the mountains behind Ft. Davis. These domes mark the location of the McDonald Observatory. The dark skies in this isolated region and the clear mountain air make for excellent star gazing conditions. In Ft. Davis, turn onto Hwy 17 southbound towards Marfa. There is excellent stealth camping on your right as you depart Ft. Davis. If you turn onto Hwy 17 northbound, you will pass through historic downtown Ft. Davis. The county courthouse is an art deco masterpiece. Continue through downtown and you will see Stone Village Market just past downtown on your left. Stone Village Market has excellent sandwiches, soup, and homemade cookies.
S 17 Marfa, 21 mi
This section is mostly flat. The Marfa plateau has a unique beauty. I have read that this grassy plateau is similar to the terrain in Tibet. In Marfa, turn right on Hwy 90 and there is a Dairy Queen restaurant a short way down on your right. Porter’s grocery store is across the street from the Dairy Queen. Marfa is small in size but is a cultural and artistic powerhouse. Coffee shops and restaurants are hidden on side streets because city ordinances forbid large signs. Be sure to take your time and thoroughly explore Marfa.
Take a one week rest break in Marfa, Texas.